Tokyo by Neighbourhood, Not by Sight

Two neighbourhoods a day

Pair one busy district with one quiet one, ideally on the same train line. Shibuya in the afternoon and Daikanyama in the evening. Asakusa in the morning and Yanaka after lunch.

That structure gives the day a shape and cuts your transport time dramatically, which on a twelve day trip is hours of your life back.

The short list

Yanaka and Nezu for old low-rise Tokyo, temples and a cemetery that functions as a park. Shimokitazawa for second hand shops and small live venues. Kagurazaka for narrow stone lanes and good French bakeries, a genuine local oddity.

Koenji for records and cheap izakaya. Kiyosumi and Kiba for the garden and the contemporary art museum. Ebisu for restaurants where you can actually book a table.

• Old Tokyo: Yanaka, Nezu, Asakusa
• Youth and music: Shimokitazawa, Koenji, Shibuya
• Quiet and residential: Kagurazaka, Daikanyama, Kiyosumi
• Food-led: Ebisu, Tsukiji outer market, Ueno's Ameyoko

Transport habits

Get an IC card at the airport and stop thinking about tickets. Google Maps is accurate for Tokyo transit, including which carriage exit you want, which matters in stations with twenty exits.

Avoid the 08:00 to 09:15 rush on the Yamanote and Chuo lines. It is not dangerous, it is simply unpleasant with luggage or children.

Where to stay

Shinjuku and Tokyo Station are convenient and expensive. Ueno is well connected and cheaper. Kuramae and Asakusa give you an older neighbourhood feel with good metro links.

Rooms are small almost everywhere. Paying for an extra few square metres is one of the better upgrades in Tokyo if you are staying four nights or more.

Two things worth booking

A sumo tournament if your dates align, since tickets sell quickly, and any restaurant you have specifically read about. Beyond that, Tokyo rarely requires reservations.

The teamLab digital art venues also use timed tickets and sell out on weekends.